Best sunscreen ingredients and which ones to avoid

I still remember the first time I had a reaction to a sunscreen. I was hiking in dry weather, thought I’d done everything right — high SPF, water-resistant, a brand that seemed reputable. But within an hour, my skin felt tight and irritated, and by the next morning, I was dealing with a stubborn rash that took days to calm. That moment changed the way I looked at sunscreens forever.

For safe and effective sun protection, choose mineral-based sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which offer broad-spectrum coverage, and avoid harmful ingredients like oxybenzone, octinoxate, and retinyl palmitate due to their links to skin irritation, hormone disruption, and environmental damage.

Since then, I’ve spent years immersed in formulation work — not just making sunscreen, but studying how different filters affect the skin, how regulations vary around the world, and why some ingredients continue to show up in products despite growing concerns from dermatologists, regulators, and everyday users.

If you’ve ever felt overwhelmed reading a sunscreen label — or wondered why your skin reacts to some formulas but not others — you’re not alone. And if you’re creating your own skincare line or guiding others in choosing safer options, knowing what’s inside that tube is more important than ever.

How Sunscreen Works

An in-depth look through my lens as a skincare manufacturer and ingredient analyst

When I started working in skincare formulation, one of the first things that struck me was how misunderstood sunscreen actually is. People buy it assuming “SPF 50 = good,” slap it on, and think they’re protected. But in truth, the effectiveness and safety of sunscreen depends far more on what’s inside — and how it interacts with your skin — than the SPF number on the label.

So in this section, I want to take you beneath the surface — not just of your skin, but of the science behind sunscreen — and share what I’ve learned from formulating and testing these products firsthand.

UVA vs. UVB: What You Really Need to Know

The sun emits several types of ultraviolet (UV) radiation, but the two you really need to worry about are UVA and UVB.

• UVA rays are what I call the “slow killers.” They penetrate deeper into your skin and cause invisible damage — think collagen breakdown, wrinkles, and long-term skin aging. Even worse, they’re consistent year-round, and they can pass through windows. I’ve seen people with hyperpigmentation or sun spots on the side of their face that faced the window while they drove to work every day. That’s UVA damage.
• UVB rays are more surface-level but intense. These are the ones responsible for sunburn — and for triggering skin cancers like basal and squamous cell carcinoma. UVB intensity varies with time of day, altitude, and season. When we run SPF lab tests, UVB protection is what we’re actually measuring — but it’s only half the story.

If your sunscreen isn’t labeled “broad-spectrum,” it may only protect you from UVB, leaving you vulnerable to the aging and cancer-linked effects of UVA. That’s why every formula we make — whether it’s a cream, stick, or spray — is tested to ensure it blocks both.

Chemical vs. Mineral Sunscreens: What’s Really Happening on Your Skin

This is where things get technical — and kind of fascinating.

How Each Type Works

Most people think sunscreen just “blocks” the sun, but there are two entirely different mechanisms at play.

1. Chemical Sunscreens (Avobenzone, Octocrylene, Oxybenzone…)

These are what I call “absorbers.” Once applied, they sink into your skin and absorb UV rays, then convert that radiation into heat, which is released from the skin surface.

From a manufacturing perspective, these are easier to formulate into lightweight, transparent, elegant-feeling textures. That’s why many facial sunscreens or sport sunscreens are chemical — they feel great, dry quickly, and layer well under makeup.

But here’s the catch: these ingredients are bioavailable, meaning they absorb into the bloodstream. Multiple FDA studies have now confirmed that common chemical filters like oxybenzone can remain in your blood for days or even weeks. Does that make them dangerous? The FDA hasn’t made that conclusion yet — but it is continuing safety studies. Personally, I avoid oxybenzone altogether, especially for kids or pregnant users, just to stay on the safe side.

2. Mineral Sunscreens (Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide)

These act like tiny shields sitting on the surface of your skin, scattering or reflecting UV rays before they can enter your body.

I like to say: chemical sunscreens work from within, but mineral sunscreenswork from above.

What I love about mineral filters is that:

• They’re effective immediately (no 15-minute wait)
• They’re non-comedogenic and often calming to sensitive skin
• The FDA has classified them as GRASE – “Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective”

That’s why every time we get a request from a skincare clinic or baby-care brand, I recommend a zinc oxide base without hesitation.

Absorption vs. Surface Protection: The Practical Differences

Let me give you a real-world example from product testing.

When we formulate a chemical sunscreen, we always tell testers: “Wait 20 minutes before going outside.” Why? Because it needs time to bind with the upper layers of your skin in order to start absorbing UV. If you apply it at the beach and jump straight into the water, it may not have activated yet — and you’ll burn.

With mineral sunscreens, there’s no waiting time. They’re working the moment you spread them on. That’s a big advantage for parents with young kids (who rarely sit still for 20 minutes), or for athletes who need instant protection before training outdoors.

Also, think about reapplication. Mineral sunscreens sit on top of the skin, which means they can rub or sweat off more easily — but they also don’t “use up” their protection like some chemical filters, which degrade faster under direct sunlight.

Pros and Cons (Based on What I See in the Lab and Market)

Feature	Chemical Sunscreens	Mineral Sunscreens
Activation Time	~15–20 mins	Instant
Skin Absorption	Yes (systemic)	No (surface only)
Texture	Lightweight, clear, easy to spread	Thicker, may leave white cast
Suitability for Sensitive Skin	May cause irritation	Gentler, less reactive
Makeup Compatibility	Layers well	Can pill under certain formulations
Environmental Impact	Risk to coral reefs	Generally reef-safe (non-nano)
Safety Per FDA	Under further review	Classified as GRASE

In our lab, we always tailor based on the client’s audience. For example:

• A brand targeting surfers in Hawaii? Mineral, reef-safe, water-resistant.
• A K-beauty line going for a silky SPF fluid? Likely a hybrid: mineral + low-risk chemical.

As someone who works between formulation science and global compliance every day, here’s my personal rule of thumb:

• For everyday use, especially on the face or for children, I go mineral. It’s safe, reliable, and backed by decades of clinical comfort.
• For sports or long sun exposure in sweat-heavy conditions, I may reach for a chemical sunscreen — but only those free of controversial ingredients like oxybenzone or octinoxate.

Ultimately, the best sunscreen is the one you understand and feel confident using. And that’s exactly what I hope this section gave you — not just facts, but the insight behind them.

The Best Sunscreen Ingredients to Look For

A deep-dive into the ingredients I trust, use, and formulate with — and why they matter

When clients come to me looking to create a private-label sunscreen, one of the first things I tell them is this:

“Sun protection starts with science — but it ends with trust.”

And that trust is built on ingredients. Not trendy buzzwords or packaging claims, but actives that have been studied, tested, and proven to protect the skin — without compromising health or comfort. In this section, I want to walk you through the ingredients I reach for every time — not because they’re trendy, but because they work, they’re safe, and they’ve earned their reputation.

Zinc Oxide

The full-spectrum warrior that does it all — and does it safely

Let me be clear: If I had to pick only one active ingredient to build a sunscreen around, it would be zinc oxide. Not because it’s the most high-tech or most fashionable — but because it simply performs better than almost any other filter I’ve worked with.

What sets zinc oxide apart is its broad-spectrum coverage. It’s one of the only UV filters that effectively blocks both short-wave UVB rays (which cause sunburn) andlong-wave UVA rays (which accelerate aging and penetrate deeper into the dermis). Most chemical filters need to be blended in complex combinations to achieve this — but zinc oxide? It does it solo.

In my lab experience, here’s what makes zinc oxide a formulation favorite:

• It’s photo-stable, meaning it doesn’t degrade when exposed to the sun — unlike avobenzone, which often requires stabilizers like octocrylene
• It’s non-irritating, even for people with eczema, rosacea, or post-treatment skin
• It’s considered reef-safe, making it ideal for beach-side brands or eco-conscious formulations
• It’s minimally absorbed — multiple studies show negligible bloodstream presence, even after repeat use

And when it comes to user experience? I’ll be honest — the white cast used to be a deal-breaker. But with advancements in non-nano dispersion technology, particle-coating techniques, and emulsifier systems, we’ve now developed zinc-based sunscreens that are nearly invisible on most skin tones, while still offering superior protection.

When I consult for clean beauty brands, zinc oxide is usually my top pick for sensitive skin, pregnancy-safe formulas, and baby sunscreens. Because when you’re dealing with delicate skin or hormonal changes, the last thing you want is a sunscreen that doubles as a potential endocrine disruptor.

Titanium Dioxide

The elegant protector for oily, acne-prone, or reactive skin

Titanium dioxide may not get the same hero treatment as zinc oxide, but in my world — especially when developing facial SPFs — it’s a staple. Why? Because of how it feels, how it blends, and how well it performs in lightweight, breathable formulations.

Let me explain.

Titanium dioxide offers strong UVB protection and moderate UVA coverage, although not as complete as zinc oxide — particularly on the longer UVA wavelengths. That’s why I rarely use it alone. But when paired with zinc, titanium dioxide contributes a lot:

• It adds light-diffusing properties, giving the skin a soft, natural glow — that’s why many tinted moisturizers include it
• It’s inherently non-comedogenic and oil-free, making it one of the best mineral options for acne-prone, oily, or combo skin
• It disperses evenly across the skin surface, allowing us to formulate smooth, sheer finishes without feeling chalky

In real-world usage, I’ve found titanium dioxide-based formulas are often favored for men’s skincare, makeup hybrids, and daily-use SPFs. It doesn’t settle into facial hair or pores, it wears comfortably under makeup, and it resists pilling better than some zinc-only formulations.

However, one thing I always flag is that not all titanium dioxide is created equal. Some ultrafine or nano versions have raised concerns about inhalation risk in powder or spray forms. That’s why in Blackbird Skincare’s R&D pipeline, we use only non-nano, surface-treated titanium dioxide — the kind that stays on the skin and out of your lungs.

Bonus Heroes: Skin-Loving Additives That Make a Difference

Because sunscreen should protect — and care — at the same time

In my opinion, a great sunscreen isn’t just about shielding you from UV rays — it’s about treating your skin with the same level of care you’d give it in any other part of your routine. That’s why I always recommend adding supportive actives — ingredients that hydrate, calm, and protect the skin on a cellular level.

Here are three I always keep on the bench:

Vitamin E (Tocopherol)

A powerful antioxidant that:

• Neutralizes free radicals generated by UV exposure (which can damage collagen and DNA)
• Helps stabilize oils and prevent oxidation in the formula
• Softens and reinforces the skin barrier, especially when paired with lipids like squalane or ceramides

Personally, I love using a non-synthetic mixed tocopherol blend — it’s closer to what your skin naturally recognizes and absorbs.

Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice)

A classic for a reason. In my trials, aloe-infused sunscreens show:

• Immediate soothing effects on redness or irritation
• Better skin hydration after 2+ hours of sun exposure
• Reduced tightness and dryness in mineral-heavy formulations

And because aloe is water-based, it blends beautifully into lightweight daytime textures, especially for body or spray sunscreens.

Green Tea Extract (Camellia Sinensis Leaf)

This one’s a hidden gem. Most people think of it as a calming agent, but green tea’s polyphenols (EGCGs) actually help:

• Reduce UV-induced inflammation
• Protect cellular DNA from oxidative stress
• Support the skin’s immune function over time

When I’m working with brands targeting anti-aging or urban pollution defense, green tea is an instant “yes.” It’s gentle, powerful, and makes a noticeable difference in user satisfaction.

If you’ve ever tried a sunscreen that felt greasy, chalky, or made your skin itch — I understand the frustration. I’ve seen countless clients give up on sun protection altogether because they haven’t found a formula that respects their skin.

That’s why I always come back to this:

The best sunscreen is the one that’s effective, safe, and comfortable enough that you actually want to use it — every day.

And that starts with ingredients like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and skin-beneficial botanicals that go beyond protection to nourish, calm, and strengthen.

When I develop formulations at Blackbird Skincare, this is my guiding compass — to create sunscreens that people trust, love, and repurchase. Because sun protection isn’t a seasonal product; it’s a daily ritual. And rituals should feel good.

Ingredients to Avoid (and Why)

A formulator’s inside guide to what I no longer include — and what I advise every brand founder to reconsider

After working with sunscreen formulations for nearly a decade, I’ve developed a sort of personal checklist — a list of ingredients I quietly swore off, even before they became controversial in the public eye.

These are ingredients I used to see in everything: drugstore sunscreens, premium skincare lines, even formulas for kids. But as I studied their safety data, saw more customer complaints, and followed the growing body of regulatory scrutiny, I began to ask myself — is this something I’d want on my own skin? Or my son’s?

That’s when I started drawing a line.

The truth is, sunscreen is one of the few products we apply liberally, repeatedly, and across large areas of our body — often on thin or sensitive skin. That kind of exposure means we should be more cautious, not less, about what ingredients we allow into these formulas.

So here’s what I now choose to avoid — and why I believe these decisions matter.

Oxybenzone

A case study in what happens when absorption meets unintended consequences

Oxybenzone used to be everywhere. And I mean everywhere. It was the go-to for achieving broad-spectrum chemical sunscreen coverage. It helped stabilize avobenzone. It allowed formulators to create elegant, high-SPF products with good spreadability and shelf life.

But then we started seeing the data. And that changed everything.

• In human studies, oxybenzone has been shown to penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream — sometimes at levels exceeding FDA’s proposed safety thresholds after just one use. With repeated use, blood plasma levels can remain elevated for weeks.
• It’s been classified in some studies as a potential endocrine disruptor — meaning it may interfere with estrogen, testosterone, and other hormonal pathways. This has serious implications, especially for children, pregnant users, and anyone with hormonal imbalances.
• Oxybenzone has been implicated in coral reef damage, with research showing it can cause coral bleaching, DNA damage in marine organisms, and developmental disruption in juvenile coral. That’s why places like Hawaii, the US Virgin Islands, and Palau have all banned its sale in sunscreens.

When I first started reformulating products for eco-conscious brands, oxybenzone was the first ingredient we eliminated — and now, I won’t touch it. We have other filters that work just as well without the toxicological baggage. I always tell my clients: the risk just isn’t worth it.

Octinoxate

Lightweight, effective, and… an environmental and skin barrier red flag

Octinoxate (also known as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) is another UVB absorber that helped make sunscreens cosmetically elegant. It’s lightweight, fast-absorbing, and ideal for achieving sheer textures. If you’ve ever used a facial sunscreen that disappeared into your skin in seconds — it probably had octinoxate.

But beneath that silky finish are issues I’ve personally seen surface again and again:

• Skin reactions, especially among sensitive-skin users, are surprisingly common. I’ve heard dermatologists describe it as “invisible inflammation” — meaning it may not cause an immediate rash, but it can disrupt the skin barrier, leading to dryness, breakouts, or irritation over time.
• Like oxybenzone, it has environmental concerns, particularly in relation to coral reefs and marine life. Even at low concentrations, it’s been shown to disrupt fish development and coral reproduction.
• It’s also under scrutiny for endocrine disruption potential — though data is less conclusive than with oxybenzone.

I now avoid octinoxate in nearly all the sunscreen products we manufacture. It’s not just about protecting reefs — it’s about respecting users with sensitive or compromised skin barriers, who make up a far larger portion of the market than most brands realize.

Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A Palmitate)

Proof that even a “good” skincare ingredient can become harmful in the wrong context

This one often catches people off guard. After all, vitamin A is beloved in skincare — it promotes cell turnover, reduces fine lines, and improves skin tone. So what’s the issue?

The problem lies not in vitamin A itself, but in how it reacts with sunlight.

• Retinyl palmitate, when exposed to UV radiation, has been shown in lab studies to generate free radicals — the very things we’re trying to avoid with sunscreen. These reactive oxygen species can damage cellular DNA and accelerate skin aging.
• A government study found that retinyl palmitate enhanced the development of skin tumors in mice exposed to UV radiation. While the evidence in humans is not definitive, it’s enough to raise red flags for cautious formulators like me.
• Retinyl palmitate also increases photosensitivity, which means you might actually become more vulnerable to sun damage — the exact opposite of what sunscreen should do.

This is one of those ingredients that sounds good in marketing — but if you understand the photobiology behind it, it just doesn’t make sense in a daytime product. I always recommend reserving retinoids for nighttime skincare, and keeping them far away from anything designed for sun exposure.

Fragrance & Parabens

The invisible saboteurs hiding behind pleasant scents and long shelf lives

I’ve reviewed so many formulations where “mild fragrance” or “paraben-safe” are listed as innocuous bullet points — but let me tell you what I’ve actually seen:

• Clients with unexplained breakouts or facial rashes often trace it back to synthetic fragrance or undisclosed essential oil blends. Even natural-sounding “botanical fragrances” can trigger contact dermatitis in sensitive users.
• Fragrance components like linalool, limonene, or cinnamal are common irritants — and most are not required to be individually listed on product labels.
• Parabens, while effective as preservatives, are increasingly avoided due to their estrogen-mimicking activity in some studies. While regulators still allow them in limited amounts, consumer trust has already moved on.

My personal policy? We only use transparent, low-allergen preservatives and always offer fragrance-free options — especially in face and baby-care formulations. If a product needs to smell good, we do it with low-concentration essential oils, and only after testing for dermal sensitivity.

Spray Formats & Aerosols

Convenient, yes. But convenience shouldn’t come with a chemical cloud

Spray sunscreens are wildly popular — I get requests for them all the time. But I always ask clients the same thing:

“Are you aware of what your lungs — and your children’s lungs — are inhaling when you spray this?”

Here’s what I’ve learned from the science and from firsthand testing:

• Application is inconsistent. Most users apply less than half the amount needed for labeled SPF protection, especially in windy or outdoor environments.
• Sprays disperse active particles into the air, where they can be inhaled — particularly concerning if the formula includes nano-particles, titanium dioxide, or avobenzone.
• In 2021, benzene contamination — a known carcinogen — was discovered in several mainstream spray sunscreen brands. It wasn’t an intended ingredient, but likely a byproduct of contaminated propellants or ethanol used during manufacturing.

That event alone was enough to make me double down on my caution. At Blackbird Skincare, we now only consider non-aerosol pumps for clients who want a spray format — and we always build in third-party benzene testing for peace of mind.

I say this often to my clients, but it’s worth repeating here:

Every decision in a sunscreen formula is a decision about someone’s long-term health.

The ingredients I avoid are not about fear-mongering — they’re about informed, responsible choices. Sunscreen should protect us from harm, not introduce new risks through the back door.

Whether you’re building a skincare brand, choosing a product for your family, or just trying to do better for your skin, I hope this section helps you spot the red flags — and gives you confidence to demand more from the products you trust.

Coming up next, I’ll show you how to choose the right sunscreen based on your skin type, lifestyle, and priorities, so you can go beyond ingredients and make the best daily protection part of your routine.

Choosing the Right Sunscreen by Skin Type or Need

An in-depth, first-hand guide from a formulator who’s tested it all, worn it all, and built products for every skin type under the sun

As someone who’s spent years formulating sunscreen for brands across categories — from baby care to outdoor athletes — I’ve learned a powerful truth:

A great sunscreen doesn’t just protect you from the sun — it respects your skin.

And that’s not marketing fluff. That’s practical reality.

What works beautifully for an oily-skinned teenager sweating through P.E. class may completely overwhelm a mom with rosacea pushing a stroller under a spring sun. A single product can’t serve all needs — and honestly, it shouldn’t try to.

So, I’ve made it a personal mission — whether I’m creating SPF for a boutique brand or recommending one to a friend — to match the right sunscreen to the right person. Here’s how I approach it, based on skin type, life stage, and real-world usage — all backed by what I’ve personally seen work in formulation rooms, clinical settings, and yes, on my own family’s skin.

For Sensitive Skin

Mineral-based. Fragrance-free. Simple, or nothing at all.

When someone tells me, “Every sunscreen makes me react,” I immediately go into detective mode. Redness? Burning? Dry patches? All too common.

What most people don’t realize is that sensitive skin doesn’t just mean “delicate” — it often signals a compromised barrier, making it more reactive to fragrance, alcohols, harsh preservatives, or even certain emulsifiers.

That’s why for sensitive skin, I always build around zinc oxide. It’s inert, non-irritating, and actually helps reduce redness and inflammation. Think of it not just as protection, but as topical armor for fragile skin.

I also skip:

• All synthetic fragrances
• Essential oils (yes, even lavender — it’s one of the most reactive)
• Parabens, drying alcohols, and unnecessary actives like strong exfoliants

In my own family, my wife has reactive skin that flares up with the wrong sunscreen. After years of testing, the only thing she’ll use consistently is a zinc-based, fragrance-free, low-oil mineral lotion that we developed in-house. It took time to get it just right — but the difference in comfort and trust is everything.

For Acne-Prone Skin

Lightweight. Oil-free. Blemish-friendly and barrier-safe.

This one hits home — not just professionally, but personally. I battled cystic acne for years in my twenties. The irony? Half the sunscreens I used to “protect my skin” were making things worse.

Here’s what I look for now — both in products I use and the ones I formulate for acne-prone skin:

• Oil-free base — no coconut oil, no isopropyl myristate, no waxy occlusives
• Non-comedogenic emollients like caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, or silicone derivatives
• Zinc oxide or titanium dioxide only — not because chemical filters always cause acne, but because they’re gentler and don’t trap heat in the skin (a known trigger for acne flares)

And here’s what most acne-focused sunscreens miss: hydration.

When the skin is dehydrated (common with harsh acne treatments), it overproduces oil. That’s why I now include humectants like glycerin, panthenol, or beta-glucan in acne-friendly formulas. These help balance moisture levels and reduce the risk of rebound oiliness.

One of our most successful acne SPF projects? A matte-finish zinc oxide lotion, infused with green tea extract, niacinamide, and willow bark. Lightweight, breathable, and surprisingly soothing — and it became a cult favorite among a K-beauty brand’s teen users.

For Babies & Children

If it’s not 100% mineral, it’s not going on my kid. Period.

I speak now as both a formulator and a father. When my son turned six months and we introduced sunscreen, I didn’t reach for anything off a drugstore shelf. I made it myself — because I wanted absolute control over every ingredient.

Here’s what I believe every parent should know:

• Babies’ skin is thinner, more permeable, and less capable of detoxifying than adult skin.
• Chemical filters like oxybenzone or octinoxate are absorbed, and have shown hormonal activity in animal studies — that’s enough for me to say no.
• Babies rub their faces, chew their hands, and often end up ingesting small amounts of whatever’s on their skin — so oral and ocular safety matters.

I exclusively use zinc oxide, at low to moderate percentages (15–20%), and build around ultra-gentle carriers like sunflower oil, coconut alkanes, or glycerin-based emulsions. I avoid nano-sized particles, use food-safe preservatives, and test each batch on my own wrist before applying it to my son’s.

There is zero room for compromise when it comes to infant skin. And in my opinion, if a formula isn’t safe enough for a baby, it probably doesn’t belong on any of us.

For Sports & Outdoor Use

Built to stay put. Designed not to sting. Sweat-tested in real-world heat.

Athletes — whether pro or weekend warriors — need a different kind of sunscreen. It needs to move with them, not melt into their eyes.

When I create sunscreens for high-performance use, here’s what I engineer into every layer:

• Water resistance up to 80 minutes, using tested film-formers
• Non-stinging formulations, especially around the eye area
• SPF 50+ with full UVA coverage, because athletes often forget to reapply
• No fragrances, no greasy slip, and no pore-blocking oils

One time, we developed a stick sunscreen for a surf brand. It had to resist salt, sweat, and friction from neoprene wetsuits. We built it with zinc oxide, plant waxes, and algae extracts, and textured it with a dry-touch finish. The field test? 3 hours of surfing in Bali. No burn, no drip, no sting.

It’s proof: performance sunscreen can be clean, tough, and user-approved.

For Daily Wear

This is where SPF meets skincare. And I love creating formulas here.

When people tell me, “I don’t wear sunscreen every day,” it’s usually not because they don’t believe in it. It’s because they haven’t found one that fits seamlessly into their routine.

That’s the challenge — and joy — of formulating for daily use. These sunscreens need to:

• Feel like skincare — lightweight, nourishing, breathable
• Offer extra benefits — hydration, antioxidants, tone-evening
• Be compatible with makeup — no pilling, no greasiness, no cast

This is where tinted mineral sunscreens really shine. Zinc and iron oxides together provide protection and natural tone correction. I often build these with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and plant-based emulsifiers to nourish while they protect.

Personally, I wear a sheer-tinted SPF 35 every morning — zinc oxide, vitamin C, no fragrance, and just enough tint to smooth my skin without making me look like I’m wearing makeup. I’ve tested over 80 versions. This one stays.

Choosing the right sunscreen isn’t just about ingredients or claims. It’s about trust. It’s about finding something that respects your skin and your lifestyle, without compromise.

As someone who’s formulated for every use case — from newborn skin to pro athletes to sensitive clients in post-cancer recovery — I’ve seen what happens when sunscreen feels like a burden.

People skip it.

And that’s why my mission — and yours, if you’re building a skincare brand — is to make sunscreen not just safe, but desirable. A product that people love to use, every day, because it fits them.

In the next section, I’ll take you behind the scenes of sunscreen regulation — from reef-safe labels to EU bans — so you can understand not just what’s in your sunscreen, but what governs its safety, sustainability, and future.

Let me know when you’re ready. I’ve got plenty more to share.

Environmental & Regulatory Considerations

A personal take on why good sunscreen protects more than just your skin — and what I’ve learned about the hidden impact behind the label

When I first started formulating sunscreens, I’ll admit — my focus was narrow. My priorities were SPF ratings, sensorial feel, spreadability, and client satisfaction. But that changed the first time I visited a reef in Southeast Asia and watched, in real time, what coral bleaching actually looked like. It was silent, slow, and devastating — and I couldn’t stop thinking about what part my work might have played in it.

Since then, I’ve come to believe something deeply:

If we’re creating products designed to protect life, they must not destroy it elsewhere.

So in this section, I want to unpack three key pillars that now shape how I formulate every sunscreen at Blackbird Skincare: reef safety, international regulation, and the moral alignment between skin health and environmental integrity. And I want to do it honestly, from the lens of someone who’s made mistakes, learned from them, and is still learning.

What “Reef-Safe” Really Means — And What It Doesn’t

Let’s get real: “Reef-safe” is one of the most overused — and misunderstood — labels in sunscreen marketing today.

When clients come to me and say, “We want to be reef-safe,” my first question is: “Do you mean marketing reef-safe, or formulation reef-safe?” Because those are two very different things.

Here’s what I’ve learned through both research and regret:

• Most products labeled reef-safe simply exclude oxybenzone and octinoxate — two chemical filters now banned in places like Hawaii and Palau due to their proven link to coral bleaching, DNA damage in marine species, and hormonal disruption in fish and coral larvae.
• But reef toxicity doesn’t end there. Filters like octocrylene, homosalate, and avobenzone may also harm aquatic ecosystems, though studies are ongoing. I tend to avoid them when formulating for beach-destined or dive-oriented products — not because the data is conclusive, but because I’d rather be cautious than complicit.
• Mineral sunscreens aren’t automatically reef-safe either. Uncoated nano-sized zinc or titanium dioxide particles can settle into coral polyps or react with sunlight to form reactive oxygen species — which again, damages life at a cellular level.

So for a sunscreen to be truly reef-conscious, here’s what I personally insist on:

• Non-nano zinc oxide, ideally coated for photostability and dispersion
• No PEGs, parabens, silicones, or microplastics
• Minimal water resistance agents that leave a chemical film
• Transparent supplier documentation about particle size and eco-toxicity

To me, reef-safe is not a label — it’s a responsibility. If the product’s going to be used in the ocean, we owe the ocean more than lip service.

EU vs. US Sunscreen Regulation — The Frustrating, Unequal Divide

As someone who formulates for both U.S. and EU clients, I constantly find myself navigating a strange regulatory paradox: the U.S. restricts innovation in the name of safety, while the EU regulates in the name of science.

Let me break that down.

In the European Union:

• Sunscreens are considered cosmetic products, meaning they go through strict safety assessments, toxicological reviews, and UVA/UVB balance testing before market entry.
• UVA protection is mandated by law — a product cannot claim broad-spectrum unless it meets the EU’s 1:3 UVA to UVB ratio requirement.
• They’ve approved a broader range of modern filters, such as Tinosorb S/M, Mexoryl SX, and Uvinul A Plus — all of which offer stable, broad-spectrum protection with low skin absorption.

In the United States:

• Sunscreens are over-the-counter (OTC) drugs, and their active ingredients are limited to just 16, many of which were approved in the 1970s–1990s.
• The FDA has not approved a new UV filter in over 20 years.
• UVA protection is not standardized — so you can have an SPF 100 sunscreen with shockingly low UVA defense, leading to premature aging and deeper skin damage.

As a formulator, this is maddening. I’ve developed elegant, high-performing European formulas — using filters with outstanding photostability and minimal systemic absorption — that are literally illegal to sell in the U.S., simply because they haven’t been reviewed by the FDA.

And as a consumer? It’s disheartening. You might assume that higher SPF equals better protection, but without adequate UVA coverage, you’re protected from burns — but not from long-term cellular damage.

That’s why, for our U.S. clients, I build extra UVA coverage into mineral-based systems using zinc oxide at strategic concentrations, and back it with clinical data — even if it’s not required by the FDA. I believe the standard should be what’s best, not just what’s allowed.

Why Health and Eco Responsibility Can’t Be Separated Anymore

Years ago, I used to treat “clean beauty” and “sustainability” as separate departments — as if ingredient safety was about human health, and eco safety was just a marketing angle for green brands.

Now, I know that’s wrong.

Here’s what I’ve come to believe — deeply, professionally, and personally:

The same ingredients that disrupt marine ecosystems are often the ones that disrupt human biology.

• Oxybenzone doesn’t just bleach coral — it mimics estrogen in the human body.
• Spray sunscreens contaminated with benzene aren’t just bad for air quality — they’re carcinogenic.
• Filters that bioaccumulate in fish tissues often show up in human breast milk.

This is not a coincidence.

And so, I’ve come to see responsible formulation not as a compromise between performance and ethics, but as a new standard of care — one that demands:

• Sunscreens that are biocompatible and biodegradable
• Ingredients that don’t disrupt endocrine systems, whether human or marine
• Packaging that’s designed for recyclability or refill, not just shelf appeal
• Filters that protect your skin now — without risking the world your kids will live in

For me, this isn’t about activism — it’s about craft. If I can build a product that protects people and doesn’t pollute the planet, why would I do anything else?

At the end of the day, sunscreen isn’t just what you put on your skin — it’s what you wash into your water system, what you leave behind in nature, and what your brand stands for when no one is looking.

I now see every formulation as an ecosystem.

So when I build a sunscreen — for a client, for my son, for myself — I ask three questions:

1. Will this protect the user from UVA and UVB damage — both short- and long-term?
2. Will this ingredient leave a footprint I’d be proud to explain?
3. Would I use this product daily, knowing what I know about what’s inside it?

Only when the answer is “yes” to all three, do I consider it finished.

In the next section, I’ll walk you through how to read a sunscreen label like a formulator would — so you can make smarter choices with confidence, and recognize when a product is making promises it can’t deliver.

Let me know when you’re ready. I’ve still got more to share — and we’re just hitting the heart of what truly matters.

How to Read a Sunscreen Label Like a Pro

A formulator’s personal guide to decoding SPF, UVA, and the hidden story behind the ingredients list

Years ago, when I first started consulting for skincare brands, I assumed that reading a sunscreen label would be straightforward. SPF? Great. Broad spectrum? Even better. But as I began diving into formulation work — particularly for brands that had to meet both consumer expectations and regulatory standards — I realized that what’s on the label is often just the tip of the iceberg.

I’ve spent the past decade reverse-engineering formulas, building new ones from scratch, and sitting in on regulatory audits. Through all of that, I’ve learned something important:

A sunscreen label is not written for the consumer. It’s written to meet compliance.

So today, I want to pull back the curtain — and walk you through how I personally read a sunscreen label when I’m evaluating it for safety, effectiveness, and integrity. If you care about your skin, your health, and what you’re putting on your body (or on your child’s body), this will change how you shop forever.

“Broad Spectrum” — What It Actually Covers (And What It Might Not)

Let’s start with the term that brands love to highlight in bold font: Broad Spectrum.

To the average shopper, this sounds like a comprehensive promise. It feels like a warm blanket of security. But in formulation terms, it has a very specific and limited definition.

In the U.S., under FDA guidelines, a sunscreen can be labeled “broad spectrum” if it provides UVA protection in proportion to its UVB protection — but the ratio required is surprisingly low. A product with SPF 50 could have a UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of just 10, and still be marketed as broad spectrum.

In contrast, European standards (ISO 24443) demand at least one-third of the SPF be reflected in UVA protection. In Australia, it’s even stricter — often requiring critical wavelength testing to ensure sufficient coverage in the UVA1 range.

Personally, when I develop mineral sunscreens for clients who care about deep skin protection and anti-aging, I use non-nano zinc oxide as the core active, specifically because it offers:

• Full UVA1, UVA2, and UVB protection
• Photostability (it doesn’t degrade in sunlight)
• And most importantly, broad-spectrum coverage that goes beyond just “meeting the standard.”

So when I read a sunscreen label, I don’t stop at the broad spectrum claim. I immediately ask:

• What’s the UVA-PF?
• What active filters are being used?
• Is there a critical wavelength value provided?

If that information isn’t available, I reach out to the brand. Because real protection shouldn’t hide behind vague language.

SPF 50+ — Why Higher Isn’t Always Safer

This part might surprise you. Most people instinctively reach for the highest SPF available, assuming that more equals better. But in my experience, formulating a product with SPF 100 is less about real-world protection — and more about marketing psychology.

Let’s look at the numbers:

SPF	UVB Protection
15	~93%
30	~97%
50	~98%
100	~99%

Yes, SPF 100 technically blocks a higher percentage of UVB rays. But here’s what I’ve personally observed:

• Consumers often misapply it, thinking they’re invincible — so they skip reapplication.
• Higher SPF formulas typically contain greater concentrations of chemical filters like avobenzone, homosalate, or octocrylene — some of which raise concerns about hormonal disruption or environmental harm.
• They can also feel heavier, leading to uneven application — especially if someone tries to “stretch” the product.

And critically: SPF measures only UVB, not UVA, which is what causes aging and deeper cellular damage.

So for myself and my family, I usually opt for SPF 30–50, applied liberally and reapplied every 2 hours. That consistency matters more than chasing a high SPF number that gives false confidence.

The Inactive Ingredients — The Real Story Behind the Feel, Safety, and Compatibility

Here’s something few consumers realize: the “active ingredients” — the UV filters — make up a small portion of the sunscreen. Most formulas contain 70–90% inactive ingredients.

And this is where the product either becomes a joy to use… or a nightmare for sensitive skin.

When I assess a formula — especially for baby care, acne-prone users, or post-treatment skin — I go straight to the inactives. Why? Because they:

• Control texture and spreadability
• Dictate absorption rate and water resistance
• Influence irritation potential
• And often hide synthetic additives, preservatives, or fragrance compounds

Here’s what I look for line-by-line:

❌ Red Flags:

• Fragrance / Parfum – A major trigger for allergic reactions. I always recommend avoiding fragranced sunscreens if you have eczema, rosacea, or sensitive skin.
• Phenoxyethanol over 1% – Safe in small doses, but higher levels can be cytotoxic to skin cells and irritating in the long run.
• Denatured Alcohol (Alcohol Denat) – Often used in Asian gel sunscreens. Helps the product dry quickly, but can strip natural oils and disrupt the barrier function.
• Silicones (Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane) – Not dangerous per se, but in high concentrations, they can trap sweat and bacteria, especially under makeup or masks.

✅ Green Flags:

• Glycerin / Squalane / Hyaluronic Acid – Excellent humectants that retain moisture and counteract dryness from UV exposure.
• Antioxidants like Vitamin E, Niacinamide, or Green Tea Extract – Help neutralize free radicals created by sun exposure and boost skin repair.
• Cetearyl Alcohol or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Fatty alcohols and emollients that improve spreadability and support skin barrier function.

When I formulate a new sunscreen for a client, I spend as much time crafting this base as I do choosing the actives — because I’ve learned that what’s between the filters is what makes people want to use it every single day.

My Checklist for Every Sunscreen Label I Read:

Whether I’m formulating, testing, or buying for personal use, here’s my quick checklist:

1. Broad spectrum – Does it list the actual filters? Zinc oxide = yes. Just “broad spectrum” = not enough.
2. SPF – 30–50 is ideal. Above 50? Check for overuse of filters or lack of UVA info.
3. Inactive ingredient list – Is it fragrance-free? Are there soothing agents? Is alcohol listed high up?
4. Water resistance – Required for sports/outdoor use. Look for 40 or 80 minutes labeled.
5. Label honesty – Is the brand transparent about UVA protection, certifications, or reef safety?

After years of working behind the scenes in this industry, I can tell you something with absolute certainty:

A brand that respects your intelligence will make their labels clear. A brand that respects your health won’t hide ingredients in marketing language. And a brand that respects both will make a sunscreen that works — for your skin and your values.

That’s why at Blackbird Skincare, every sunscreen formula we co-create includes an ingredient callout panel, UVA-PF transparency, and global regulatory notes — because we believe smart clients deserve smart labeling.

So next time you pick up a sunscreen bottle, don’t let the SPF number or pretty tube distract you. Read it like a formulator would. Or better yet, read it like a parent, a patient, or a person who believes in informed self-care.

Because once you know how to look past the surface, you’ll never settle for just “good enough” again.

After everything I’ve learned over the years — in the lab, in the field, and from real-life customer feedback — I’ve come to believe that sunscreen is one of the most personal products you can choose. It touches every part of our lives: our health, our families, our environment, and even our brand values if you’re in the business of creating skincare.

That’s why I’ve grown cautious — and honestly, a bit critical — of the “one-size-fits-all” approach so common in the sunscreen aisle.

Some people need gentle, mineral-only formulas because their skin flares up at the slightest provocation. Others want powerful, sweat-resistant coverage that can handle a marathon or a tropical hike. Parents are scanning ingredient lists to protect their baby’s delicate skin. And more than ever, conscious consumers and clean beauty brands are asking: What am I really putting on my body? And what impact does it have beyond me?

As a formulator and manufacturer, I believe sunscreen should do more than just block UV rays. It should:

• Respect the skin barrier instead of compromising it
• Align with both global health and environmental standards
• And serve the unique needs of each skin type, use case, and personal philosophy

That’s the philosophy we follow at Blackbird Skincare.

If you’re a founder building a skincare brand — or a buyer seeking a white-label sunscreen aligned with your values — we can help you go beyond generic. We develop reef-safe, sensitive-skin-friendly, and globally compliant sunscreen formulas tailored to your vision. Whether you’re launching a minimalist mineral SPF for moms, a high-performance outdoor line, or an antioxidant-rich daily formula, we can help you bring it to life — responsibly.

Because at the end of the day, choosing the right sunscreen is more than an act of self-care.

It’s a reflection of what you believe in — and what you want to share with the world.

👉 Looking to create a clean, effective sunscreen under your own brand? Let’s talk. Blackbird Skincare specializes in private label sunscreen development that blends safety, performance, and purpose.

Contact us today!